September 2007

South Sudan 2nd Time Around

February 2007

A New Sudan
Southern Sudan

January 2007

Ghana Again and Again
 

 

 

 

 

 

 



September 2007

 

South Sudan 2nd Time Around

 

     We arrived in South Sudan undoubtedly suffering from an “if it’s Tuesday we must be in Belgium “syndrome. Two days of flying then a couple of meetings in Nairobi with AID organizations we are indirectly involved with, then before we knew it we were on a Nairobi-Juba [The South Sudan Capital] flight. After a 4-hour delay on an aircraft looking older than us we were on our way. We were only put at ease by the anticipated excitement for next 3 weeks which we knew lay ahead of us in South Sudan .

 

     Once in Juba it was good to be reunited with Melinda [American] and Levi [Sudanese] both program directors responsible for our work and well being. With expectation of undisrupted sleep and stomach regulation we settled into our new but familiar surroundings. We were led into a not so fancy guest house dependent on 12 truck batteries to keep us comfortable, However, with satellite TV, air-conditioning, home cooked meals and my very own internet connection; we have nothing to complain about. Detached from our last previous lives of constant sports, In and Out hamburgers and our morning workout, we quickly acclimated ourselves to bumpy roads, mosquitoes and lack of chocolate quickly. Our guest house is secure and safe with many security guards armed with cell phones. If needed, I can’t manage help could come quickly with the local roads that can’t handle anything traveling more than 5-miles an hour.

 

      We took with us little more then a Swiss Army knife a couple changes of clothes and my trusty laptop computer, just the basics we need for our stay. What we love here besides the work are the impromptu gatherings with other Foreign Service people over insurmountable beers. Most have spent a good part of their adult life on the African continent and their experiences are awe-inspiring and make us more listeners than story tellers. There are no barriers from politics, religion, to the good, the bad and the impossible, working in African countries. Most other than Flo and I and some consultants passing through live somewhere in Africa, have families and know what’s going on in the AID world.

 

     Our mission here is to train 40 plus women, mostly widows who lost their husbands in the 23 years of Civil War which recently, ended in Sudan . Few have a livelihood or any means of income. I’m going to give a 2 week basic business training course and an analysis of local business opportunities. Flo and I will introduce basic micro businesses to them and try to arrange some micro financing. Flo will run a work shop on HIV/AIDS education, grant writing and organization strengthening. These are the type of programs that will eventually rebuild this War-Torn country.

 

     The time we finish here in South Sudan we would have spent a total of 2 months in 2007. In that time it is inevitable to get to know the people of South Sudan . We can’t help but adding this country to our “Wish and Want List” that they meet some type of prosperity soon. Admittedly, It’s a hard country to work in, frustrating on trying to get anything done on a timely basis. Plenty of obstacles, whether it’s from tribal or ethnic prejudices, religious differences, government and NGO bureaucracy or even gender stagnation. With it all we enjoy every day we are here.

 

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February 26, 2007

A New Sudan

Hi All,

Just imagine a country without any electricity, water that has to delivered everyday by a donkey driven wagon, no autos other than UN issued Toyota Land Cruisers, non -existent local transportation, and  the hardest to imagine, no chocolate. That’s South Sudan where UN and AID workers almost out number its own people. That’s what 23 years of war and conflict can do to a country and its people.

We’ll start with the horror story first. Leaving for Sudan we were hit with the classic domino effect. One delay on the Phoenix Chicago run caused mayhem of rescheduling, trying to get to Nairobi , our jumping off spot for South Sudan . So we were rerouted Phoenix to Chicago to London to Rome to Qatar to Nairobi where we spent the night, then to Uganda, then Juba in Sudan, then catching 2 small planes from Juba to Rumik, then to Wau our final destination. I’m not going to try to count the hours we spent on planes or terminal waiting rooms, but in all it was 9 different airplanes 10 cities, 7 countries and 4 continents. Our luggage didn’t have a chance to make it, which it didn’t. It turns out it wasn’t the Sudanese rebels we had to worry about but the airlines.

My big 65 was spent somewhere over the skies of Rome , Qatar and Kenya and its respected airports. That night in Nairobi however, we caught up with an old friend, a Vice President of the organization we are here with MK. Cope. She treated us to a fine meal at a good Nairobi restaurant which we ordered one too many margaritas.

 Outside of the Middle East , The Horn of Africa is the most troubled and tense spot in the entire world. However, we are in South Sudan because there are good programs for both Flo and I. Business development and training young entrepreneurs along with building women’s self-esteem to help build a society that can at least enjoy the basics of life. South Sudan is not just another country whose average income of its habitants earns less than a dollar a day. It shows the strife and war from years of Arab, Black conflict on every dusty road in the southern region. It’s as rudimentary as it gets which makes South Sudan a smorgasbord of humanitarian programs for AID workers like us.  Chooses your favorite dish and go to work, consuming it. We still enjoy these programs, we get to travel and it makes us feel both young and old at the same time.

Our first steps in South Sudan was Juba where we were greeted in by the Sr. Field Operations Manager, Melinda of the VEGA [Volunteers for Economic Growth Alliance] –IESC [International Executive Service Corps] program and escorted to the only housing in the capital for foreigners. We spent the night in a neat tent camp in an over sized tent with all the amenities, 2 cots a light and a mosquito net. Uniqueness of camp was emphasized by all the AID workers here to do some type of development work in South Sudan . The food was excellent but couldn’t compare to the ambiance. Here we are exhausted from 5 days of non-stop flying, no luggage [if I omitted telling anyone] now sipping an ice cold Pilsner just a few feet from the mighty Nile River . The Nile, the bright full African moon, the breeze softly blowing off the Nile . This is the stuff TV Movies are made of; it really couldn’t get any better.

A new Sudan is emerging from a period of conflict where there were high levels of human displacement and limited productive activity.  Sudan today is divided by the North and the South. S. Sudan is looking to secede  the next 6 years  but there problem is that they have oil, so lasting independence and peace may be harder to achieve than expected.

The current population in all of Sudan is over 12 million, with 6 million residing in S. Sudan whose individuals have limited exposure and proficiency levels. Albeit many of those displaced are returning with varying degrees of exposure to new productive activities. 23 years of civil war, Arab against Black Muslin of the North [Darfur] and the Northern Arabs s against the Blacas k, mostly Christian of the South. In Wau, S. Sudan where we are its considered safe to walk around as long as you stay on the main roads avoiding the thousands of land mines still in the area.

We arrived in Wau and were escorted to a basic Guest House with our team of aid workers who will spend the next month implementing programs to have some impute into the local economy. We landed on a dirt runway and surprised to find our greeting party can drive right up to plane to collect us and any luggage [which we didn’t have].  The guest house came with cleaning service, breakfast, lunch and dinner and about 6 hours of generator time which gave us power for the ceiling fans, TV and time to charge our laptop computers. In the evenings we can catch Al Jazeera TV the only station available via satellite. Al Jazeera seemingly appears neutral on world affairs but 80% of the news clips, shows atrocities by Americans and Israelis but little of the Arab vs. Arab conflicts.

The work here was exceptional, well planned and we feel everyone got best for their buck. Flo help establish the first Women’s Business Association in Wau.  30 plus eager women were like sponges, absorbing everything Flo had to teach and putting it into immediate process. Flo also managed to sneak in her dental hygiene instruction to about 30 children. I ran a 3 week business training program on entrepreneurship and business problem solving. Flo and I both enjoyed visiting the participant’s local businesses and offering some advisory service. In all we feel our time in Wau was successful and will have input for the future of people we worked with.

The night noises in Wau are filled with the noise of diesel run generators until midnight when the entire city goes dark and hot. There is a lot of down time [work wise] especially when generators need to take their rest. Satellite connections are hit and miss and when it’s a hit we are happy to spend the $7.00 per hour to hook up to the internet. There are those times when we bury ourselves in a book, drink a cold beer and watch the river Jur [Wau] or the Nile [ Juba ] float by. Not a bad way to spend an unproductive day.

 

We’ll home be home on March 9th, this time for an extended period, we hope.

Flo & Dave

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February 14, 2007

Southern Sudan

After 9 different planes, 4 days and lost luggage which, still haven't found our way to us [but located] we made it to Wau in Southern Sudan. This place is certainly different to anything we have been in before. No roads, no hotels, just few government guest houses or tent camps to stay in. There is 1 Internet which is pretty resourceful and $7.00 an hour. With it all we are having a great time and doing some real meaningful work. S. Sudan is infiltrated by UN Peace Keeping forces which you see at every turn. We eat 3 meals a day at our guest because restaurants are rare. We seem to be buying clothes on a daily basis waiting for our luggage to arrive in this remote place. We are working with fine young people from the US, Kenya and S. Sudan. however, like the rest of world businesses are trying to exist and need help organizing themselves for a better life. Its a post conflict reconstruction environment, where war is very fresh on the local people minds. There is a definite divide from the Arabic north and the Black south with a fragile peace 2 years old now. Our training courses are translated into Arabic and we can't buy a pencil without an interpreter. We get 1- 24 hr TV station and that is Al Jazeera, so we are kept up with all the wars going on around the world. However, they are not as anti-American as we thought. Or is that because we are more anti-war than we thought.  With it all it is safe for us and we are enjoying every minute.

 

With it all it is safe for us and we are enjoying every minute.

 

Flo & Dave

 

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January 19, 2007

Ghana Again and Again

Our social calendar went from close to fictional to excessive. It started with a busy Holiday weekend when we attended our friends Pat’s, [American from NYC] Christmas party for the children of Nana House. Nana House, situated in the poverty-laden community of Chorkor T Garden in Accra . Nana House is the school she runs for local disadvantaged children. We joined in the festivities and once again realized what a great time of year this is for children, no matter what country. We enjoyed the skits directed and acted out by the students. Then certainly agreed with all the accolades Pat received from appreciable parents and citizens Chorkor T Garden.

The holidays just don’t seem the same without blinking lights [when there’s electricity] or artificial snow [no such thing as real snow here]. Sure Ghana has its share of inflatable Santa’s and overused plastic Xmas trees to go along with the 24 hour holiday music. And, like home, there is a never-ending encouragement to go out and buy gifts.

Our busy holiday continued when a friend of a friend of a friend got married and we were invited as guest of our friend Barbara.  Flo attended the wedding ceremony and we both attended the reception. Typically Ghanaian, the wedding ceremony started an hour and half late. However, that didn’t disrupt our habit of arriving on time for the next night’s reception, starting at 6:30 as printed on the invitation. At 8 pm the guest started slowly filtering in, the bride and groom decided to attend on their own 9pm or was it 10? The once the festivities began, bottles of South African wines was placed at each table but getting to drink it turned out to be an all evening dilemma. No one seemed to have a corkscrew in the entire party facility. They actually had to send someone out to buy a corkscrew on Christmas Eve, no less. Finally we sat down for a good meal and a glass of wine at 11pm or was it 12? That enabled us to stay out to the early hours of the morning and overlook our normal bedtime of 8 pm. 

Christmas Day was spent with the family of another Ghanaian friend Vincent, who resides in Phoenix . His sister Jane and Brother-In –Law John, live in a comfortable home in Teshie, a nice coastal community close to Accra . It was full of holiday fun with family and friends, children playing games, men talking business and women preparing great food. The children were delightful, playful while respectful and it all resulted in a most rewarding and pleasant day. 

The New Year in Ghana is celebrated 2 days before and 2 days after but not on New Years Eve where most Ghanaians spend the night at church.  The New Years celebrations for us started early at a Rotary Club party as guest once again of our friend Barbara. It was on a palatial estate owned by the newly elected president of the Airport Rotary Club. It was held in his magnificent house, full of marvelous art. The 100 or so, guest was a cross section of the energetic people that have made Ghana the best country on the African continent to be in. Highlighted by an extravagant serving of exceptional food and of course dancing to 1 am. It was an overwhelming impressive evening.

 A couple of days before the New Year we met two enterprising men at our favorite watering-hole, Papas Bar. Emanuel an economic major with his masters from Tel Aviv University in Israel . And Samuel an entrepreneur who had spent the last 18 years in South Africa . We spent a pleasant evening exchanging stories about working and living, in foreign countries. The evening led to invite to a New Years Party being thrown by Samuel’s brother and wife. Emanuel and his wife Mary, who we quickly bonded with, picked us up and like usual we were one of first to arrive at the party. That was fine because it would take hours to walk through the palatial estate we found ourselves in. The house by no means would be out of place in Beverly Hills , in fact it would be on the celebrity maps sold in the area. The house set off by the largest indoor-outdoor bar leading to a large pool, inlaid with the popular Ashanti symbol for eternity at the pools bottom. More impressive was that the bar was stocked with every kind of liquor imaginable. Getting there early gave a chance to get to know our host Daniel and Barbara. Both are doctors who practiced in South Africa soon after apartheid was abandoned. Over the years they built clinics and hospitals throughout SA, invested wisely in prime real estate before returning to their roots in Ghana to enter the political arena. Among the 400 guest were probably the most influential people in Ghana , mostly high members of the NPP party now in power. We were half waiting for Ghana ’s President John Kufuor to show, but I’m not sure he made the invitation list. The evening was with the three favorite things Ghanaians love drinking, dancing and dining. A magnificent buffet was served well after mid-night and when sufficiently stuffed, we called it a night. We left early, but well after 2am leaving most guests still drinking, dining and dancing.  A night to remember!

 For us what makes Ghana , so rewarding are Ghanaians, Always smiling and greeting us.  Especially this time of year when everyone wishes us a Merry Christmas as we take late afternoon walks. There’s a constant, manyana attitude where watches and clocks are useless ornaments.  In Ghana , there is no talk [or need] of de –nuking the military, how refreshing. As we leave our habitat each day, Flo is always joined by the neighborhood kids who grab both her hands and swing them to tune of the nursery rhyme she taught them the day before. When we leave, she will miss those kids most of all. In all, Ghana is extremely safe, no matter what time or place we are at. It’s an easy country with only the horrendous traffic to get stressed with.

New Years Eve came and went quietly while the only resolution we made is to spend more time at home. We quickly broke that resolution, when we learned that a “60 day truce” has been declared between the government of Sudan and its Darfur rebels. Just in time for Flo and I to get in and out of the country. We have accepted an invitation from the International Executive Service Corps to go to Southern Sudan in February for a month. At least we’ll be home for 2 weeks to catch up with everyone.

Before our final days in Ghana were upon us, Flo and I went the northern city of Sunyani , where I had small consulting job.  We both got out of the mayhem of Accra to work, relax and reminisce of our 3 months in Ghana .

In Theory Ghana has a good system to conserve their valuable energy. Every 5th day we go without power for 12 hours. The power switches off from daytime to nighttime on the same schedule. However, the power master doesn’t seem to like to work on theories and we seem to spend a sleepless night at least twice a week. We have got use to using crowded tro-tro’s to get around Accra, but often have wait to they fill up  with passengers which usually takes up to an hour. It’s always a disbelieve whether the ignition will get the vehicle moving, but often than not it takes a good push to get going. You have to love the messages usually painted on the back windows of these tro-tro's. The best of the lot was signed “ Executive Transport and Courier “ which is a mostly dented old mini-van carrying 25 people on 12 seats loaded with baskets of dried fish and chicken gizzards . Somehow, we never fail to reach our destination. Some innovated signing are “Life has no Spare Parts”  and best one we have often seen on numerous disable vehicles along the side of road with the message; “Trust Me”.  One also can’t help but notice all the cars lined up along the road with its hood up and someone tinkering with the mechanics. Ghanaians have a unique talent, for getting the most life out of a vehicle. If it consumes gas, they can make it run no matter what. Accra also has it share of late model cars like Mercedes and BMW’s, even a Mazarati is seen in our neighborhood. However, most cars look like machines that crash dummies wouldn’t be seen dead in.

 I’ll miss my favorite fruit-lady who day after day man’s her kiosk full of fruit. I never pass without a gleeful greeting, some fresh bananas and the sweetest pineapple in all of Africa . The last 3 months we have made some neat friends and we’ll miss them unless we get a chance to return to Ghana . I had to have my last goat kebab at Papas bar before we head home. With it all, it’s been a fine time, but we are really looking forward to getting home on Monday.

Flo & Dave  

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